5 auto maintenance procedures you don't need

Tis the season for magnets, “vortex generators,” “water injectors” and other useless accessories designed to give your engine better performance. But these and other dubious tune-up processes can bleed your wallet and leave your car no better off than before. The best preventive car medicine is to read your owner’s manual and bone up on your ride’s needs, but in the meantime, here’s a 5-point list of dubious or unneeded engine-enhancing procedures.

FUEL-INJECTION CLEANING ($125-$200)

“If your Check Engine light isn’t on and your car’s running fine,” says Mike Allen of SaturdayMechanic.com, whose team of testers have debunked dozens of phony gadgets, “Skip fuel-injection cleaning.”  An upper engine carbon cleaning is a good thing to have every 35,000 miles because of varnish deposits. Once a year is overkill.

ENGINE FLUSHES ($100-$200)

An engine flush uses a machine and chemicals to rid your engine’s innards of sludge, but it’s not a normal maintenance check-point unless you’ve neglected your engine. Change your oil according to manufacturer’s recommendations and you won’t need an engine flush. If you’ve got an engine with high mileage and deposits, a flush will break loose sludge that can get into the engine, but it’s not necessary if you’ve otherwise taken good care of your car.
OIL ADDITIVES ($5 AND UP)

There are numerous oil additives on the market ranging from products designed to reduce friction and bolster fuel economy to those whose manufacturers claim their product will allow you to run your engine dry of oil without damaging bearings.  Steer clear of all.

GAS SAVERS ($10-$400)

Some of the pseudo-scientific gas savers on the market just plain don’t work and may actually hurt engine performance. The E.P.A. has tested over 100, from pills you pop into your tank to “cow magnets,” and none have proven effective.  

 LONG-LIFE ANTIFREEZE ($4-$8 PER QUART)

There isn’t any evidence that “long life” antifreeze is any better for your radiator than standard antifreeze, and you shouldn’t assume that because you’ve bought and used it, you can ignore maintaining your radiator. Perform a 2-year, 24,000 mile flush regardless of what kind of antifreeze is in your radiator, especially if you live in a wintery climate. And don’t mix coolants, either, says Mike Allen.  “That’s asking for trouble, especially if your car’s engineered for a specific type of anti-freeze.”

Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 / 0 Comment / Read More

Why is we Check Engine Light on?

Is your "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light on? If so, you may need to "service your engine soon," but how can you know for sure what is wrong without taking it to a dealership and getting charged for a diagnostic test. The car still runs fine, so what's the big deal.

There are a wide range of things that can trigger the unwanted light. It can be anything from a misfiring cylinder due to a bad spark plug, to a bad O2 sensor, to an air fuel ratio outside the optimal parameters. There is an easy and cheap way to check. In our area of georgia, I have found that most of the Autozones carry the OBD1 and OBD2 diagnostic computers which can scan for trouble codes. They offer this as a free service to their customers, which can save the $35 to $80 I have seen charged for the same thing.

Once these error codes are received from your computer, you have a clue as to what the problem is. You can now do a simple google search to see what the codes mean specifically for your vehicle. In a lot of cases, it will tell you exactly the faulty component, such as which O2 sensor or cylinder is failing. You can now purchase the parts you need and save time and money on the repairs and service.

Begining in the 1990's most cars began coming equiped with on board diagnostics, or OBD codes. Also called trouble codes, these codes help diagnosis problems your vehicle is having, sometimes before they are bad enough for you to be stuck on the side of the road. If the warnings are acted upon, you can save yourself in the long run. There are two different types of on board diagnostics depending on the make and year of your vehicle. OBD 1 cars were produced up to '95 and OBD2 runs from '95/'96 and up. Check your vehicle owners manual to know for sure.

When your check engine or service engine soon light come on, be sure to go and have the codes read. Don't wait for your car to stop running before you take it in for repairs, because the cost of waiting is usually higher.
To check your trouble codes, you can visit one of my favorite sites for trouble code information located at the code database. Here you can find all the codes for all makes and models sorted by year and code. Armed with the right info, maintenance and service are a breeze for any vehicle.

Hopefully you have some useful information to use when you encounter the dreaded check engine light. Stay up to date on themaintenace and service and your car should return the favor by being reliable. If you need assistance with your codes, or just diagnosing a problem, contact Majestic Modifications at

Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 / 0 Comment / Read More

Gas Mileage and Fuel Efficiency

With gas prices at an all time high and averaging over $3.00 a gallon, what can we do to curb the rising cost of transportation? Is there anything I can do to ease the burden on my wallet?

Surprisingly there is. There are a lot of ways to spread the burden of rising transportation cost. You can change your driving habits to get more fuel economy, you can look for alternate modes of transportation, or you can upgrade/modify your car for better gas mileage.

First we will look at changing your driving habits. The biggest cause of decreased fuel economy is how we drive. Fast acceleration, stop and go traffic, and higher highway speeds all can decrease fuel economy over the course of a tank of gas. First, look at how you accelerate. If you can train yourself to accelerate from a stop at a steady, moderate pace, you can save a lot of fuel. You don't want to accelerate too slowly, but you do want to keep the rpm's between 2250 and 3000 on shifts depending on your vehicle. Larger engines will create more power at low rpm's, and will usually shift naturally between 2250 and 2500 rpms. Smaller engines usually shift between 2500 and 2750, respectively. Keep this in mind in your stop and go traffic and you can conserve a little fuel that way.

The next thing to consider when trying to conserve fuel cost is to find alternate modes of transportation. The most cost effective way of doing this is to carpool. Find people who live near you that work close to where you work. This can be tricky, but there are services, especially in the Atlanta area, that can help you find commute partners. Asking around with coworkers can usually be just as effective. If you are married, you can carpool with your spouse to and from work. This may take little bit of time sacrifice, but you cut your fuel cost virtually in half. You can also look into trading in your vehicle for a more efficient car. Many of the new cars are averaging 30 or more mile per gallon (EPA estimates). Also a fun swap would be to a moped or motorcycle. These get outstanding gas mileage, but be aware of your most travelled routes. This is only a good idea if your daily drive/commute allows for a safe ride to and from work ad home.

Another option not thought about as much is to modify your current vehicle to get better gas mileage. You can add a cold air intake, a hydrogen booster, or many other types of gas saving upgrades. These upgrades are not typically though of as gas saving modifications because they can result in more aggressive driving habits due to the added performance they give your vehicle. If you are feeling the strains of the rising fuel costs, it may be time to do some research and make a change.

Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 / 0 Comment / Read More

Car Maintenance

Cars tend to be on the road much longer now than they used to be. By "longer" I mean they are seeing a lot more miles. Todays vehicles are getting to 200,000 or more miles before needing extensive repairs. Technology has come quite a long way, so how do you keep your car running for that long? And if you purchase a car with high mileage, what are the risk and things you should know about it?
To keep you car running in tip top shape, it is important to ensure a few things.
1) It must be properly lubricated internally. That means get your fluids changed when you should. Oil is every 3000-5000 miles depending on driving habits. Highway miles can usually push closer to 5000, but city stop-and-go driving should be changed sooner. Always change the filter at every oil change too. Transmission fluid must be changed at the appropriate intervals along with the filter. Refer to the owners manual for this. A commonly overlooked area is the rear end of rear wheel drive vehicles. This oil must also be changed as often as the transmission fluid. If not, metal will start to wear down and you will notice a jolt or a thud when putting the car in gear. Also have the brake lines flushed. Thats right, the brake lines. Until recently, it was thought that brake fluid wouldn't need replacing, but studies show that bad brake fluid can result in master cylinder failure. Also take note of the radiator fluid. If this is overlooked, you can get rust deposits and clogged water passages in the engine. Clogged water passages equals higher engine temps, which are an enemy of durability.
2) The engine must have the right fuel and air mixture. This is important for several reasons. The fuel mixture determines the combustion in the cylinders. This is directly related to horsepower, fuel economy, and engine life. A lean mixture (not enough gas) can cause detonation, which is very bad for the internals of the engine. Prolonged periods of detonation from a lean fuel mixture can take thousands of miles off of the life of the motor, and hamper performance and fuel economy. Running too rich (too much gas) can have a different but equally adverse effect, resulting in carbon build up and premature valve failure. Late model care are equipped with computers to control the fuel and air mixture. If a component in the system fails, the check engine light will come on. This is usually a sign of a component going bad that read or adjust the fuel air mixture. Riding with this light on, even though you may not notice it, can be detrimental to your engine. Always have the codes read and fix the problem to ensure the durability of the engine.
3) Revs are an enemy of every engine. The higher the rpms, the greater the risk of engine failure. Driving habits have everything to do with how many rpms your engine will see. At higher rpms, there is a greater chance for bearing wear and damage, piston ring and cylinder wall scoring, among many other unwanted possibilities. Engines have a red line, which is the highest rpm the engine can safely withstand without immediate damage. Stay close to the edge too long, and you may find yourself with burnt rings, bent or burnt valves, spun engine bearings, or collapsed lifters.
The OEM auto parts and aftermarket auto parts markets have a lot of options out there to help you keep your car maintained and running smoothly. You can find whatever you need to replace your sensors and get the scheduled maintenance done on time, but if you heed these warnings, then you should see every bit of 200,000 miles and beyond.

Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 / 0 Comment / Read More